Gunung Kerinci

Hiking up Indonesia’s highest volcano

Pain is so close to pleasure — and terror a mere heartbeat away from sublime beauty

SB felt a draught on the back of his neck and turned around. The rear door of the van had worked itself loose. It was now flapping freely, exposing the compartment where our luggage was stored. Some of the bags were missing, having tumbled out of the back. And we hadn’t even started our hike.

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