of the structure and ancillary buildings. The present-day castle tower was reconstructed in 1931 (although some of the surrounding structures date back to much-earlier periods). What is seen today of the main castle tower is largely the result of a restoration carried out in 1995 and completed in 1997. Although the main tower is a reconstruction, Osaka Castle is a magnificent sight against the skyline of the city. Thousands of visitors throng the castle complex and the 100ha Castle Park, which is home to over 600 cherry trees that bloom in spring. Much of the castle grounds are historically important and are centuries old, with 13 structures deemed Important Cultural Properties by the government. The most striking of these is the extensive moat built during the Tokugawa period, with a width of between 70 and 90 metres. The walls on both sides of the moat are said to be the mightiest in Japan — their graceful fan-shaped curves were more than an aesthetic feature, as scaling them was extremely difficult. With a height of more than 20m, the walls were constructed from interlocking blocks of stone without the use of mortar. Boulders were quarried from distant sites and transported over long distances, including by barge, over the Seto Inland Sea. Massive stone blocks are also seen in the walls of the historical Otemon (western) gate outside the castle, with some smooth-faced blocks estimated to weigh several hundred tons.


PLAY • Dotonbori (pictured) is arguably Osaka’s most touristy neighbourhood but is a must-visit. Streets are dotted by iconic shop displays and neon lights, while a number of cafés and restaurants come with their own roof terraces — ideal for listening to live music and enjoying Osaka’s breathtaking nighttime skyline. • The Japanese are huge baseball fans, so if you are in Osaka anytime from March to September make sure you catch a live game. The Hanshin Koshien Stadium, located just 15km outside of Osaka, is the home base for Japan’s most enthusiastic baseball team, the Hanshin Tigers. • Get your nature fix at the Fumin no Mori Hoshida Park, a 105ha forest reserve that is ideal for visitors of all ages. Its main attraction is the 280m Hoshi no Buranko suspension bridge, which provides stunning vistas of the forest below. If you feel that something more strenuous is in order, the park has a 16.5m rock climbing wall alongside special facilities for children.

EAT • Located in the outskirts of Osaka, Kashiwaya (pictured) — helmed by three-Michelin star chef Hideaki Matsuo — offers modern Japanese food in a serene sukiya-style setting that draws from traditional Japanese tea ceremonies. Chef Matsuo’s well-known obsession with seasonality is most evident in his kaiseki menu, which changes every month to highlight seasonal Japanese produce. • The takoyaki we all know and love is usually brushed with a tangy sauce and sprinkled with aonori shavings and dried bonito. But at Aizuya, said to be where takoyaki originated, the piping hot dish was first served without any topping. Aizuya also offers rajio yaki, the supposed predecessor of takoyaki, which contains beef and konnyaku instead of octopus. • Mizuno at Dotonbori has been serving one of the best okonomiyaki dishes in Osaka for over 70 years. Apart from its classic okonomiyaki, patrons are also encouraged to try yamaimoyaki — a flourless yam version topped with scallops, pork slices, oysters, squid and shrimp. The place is popular with locals, so prepare to queue during peak hours.