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Introducing Cartier's new Tank Must watch collection

Audrey Simon
Audrey Simon • 3 min read
Introducing Cartier's new Tank Must watch collection
The new Tank Must is a watch that dares to return to great classicism, right down to the smallest detail.
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The new Tank Must is a watch that dares to return to great classicism, right down to the smallest detail

Luxury watch collectors and aficionados will remember the Les Must de Cartier line that was created in the 1960s with a launch of the burgundy game bag with its logo, the oval lighter with its vertical gadroons, the Tank vermeil watch, the C-branded eyewear and more.

This year the focus is on the Tank Must, the Tank Louis Cartier. The Tank Must is a name immortalised at Cartier in the 1970s that re-visits the classic conventions of luxury. Tank Must is a chic watchmaking feat worn by many. A Maison signature whose design and movements are continuously evolving, driven by Cartier’s watchmaking commitment to constant progress. The Design Studio has reworked the design of these new Tank Must with monochrome versions and an original version based on a new photovoltaic movement.

Created in 1917, the Tank Louis de Cartier watch very quickly spawned several variations. Louis Cartier reworked its design from as early as 1922. Its case was stretched, brancards refined and edges softened: the Tank L.C. had arrived. A classic was born.

“Rail tracks”, cabochon sapphire, Roman numerals. It was Louis Cartier who laid the foundations of signature watchmaking aesthetic, with its very latest version perpetuating this tradition to within a few subtle nuances.

The Louis Cartier Tank cultivates its timeless elegance in colour. The choice of blue and red was a must, as these colours are a part of Cartier’s DNA. An intense red and a bright blue highlight and enhance the watch’s pure lines.

Cartier has added sophisticated details to these two previous versions, including Roman numerals and gold-coloured rail tracks, which help to enhance the dial’s graphic intensity.

The blue version is in pink gold, the red in yellow gold, both coordinated with the straps, these two watches come with a Manufacture 1917 MC movement with manual winding.

See also: Cartier's High Jewellery collection is a lesson in nature

Les Must de Cartier through the years

1968: Launch of the oval lighter with its vertical gadroons.

1973: Opening of Les Must de Cartier boutique in Place Vendôme.

Les Must de Cartier boutique decor in Place de Vendôme during its opening

Les Must de Cartier logo on the façade of 44 Champs-Élysées

1974: Launch of the Must leather goods.

The Cartier leather goods in the Cartier Geneva boutique, 1976

The Cartier Carnassière bag in Bordeaux-red leather,

1976: Launch of the first oval pens with vertical gadroons

1977: Launch of the Tank vermeil.

Tank Must de Cartier wristwatches, 1977

1981: Les Must de Cartier has its own perfume.

The launch takes places in Versailles and was the Maison's first perfume. Mirroring a unique and splendid era, this exuberant perfume inaugurates an olfactive style, becoming a true signature of Cartier Perfume.

Ballet and a show during the launch party of the Must de Cartier and Santos de Cartier perfumes at the Château de Versailles, 1981

1983: Must de Cartier eyewear launched during a jetsetters party at Port El Kantaoui in Tunisia.

Invitation card to the Must de Cartier eyewear launch party in Port El Kantaoui, Tunisia, 1983.

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