
start production more than a year before. In terms of creative decisions, I would say this is not fast and reactive enough,” shares Langer.

The CEO also seems to have anticipated a bumpy road ahead. He says: “Unfortunately, we’re operating in an environment with a lot of macroeconomic disruptions, be it the Brexit discussions or the impact of the strong growth in e-commerce, which puts physical retail under pressure. “But I’m confident we’re doing the right thing, “Langer continues. “Some of these we can turn into opportunities for us, like e-commerce, but for situations like that in Hong Kong currently, which has affected people’s mood for shopping, it is out of our control. It’s something we have to deal with and just weather the storm.” Another opportunity Hugo Boss is seizing is its growth in the China market, which reached double-digit figures for the most part last year. Now back in Shanghai six years after its last fashion show, Langer says the pre-fall show is a new level for the brand in terms of its presence and familiarity in the country. The Chinese are a sophisticated customer market now, knowledgeable about product quality and craftsmanship, he adds. Known for its “tailoring competencies”, the premium suit maker has made considerable effort to woo the millennial generation and those in the China market have been particularly receptive. This will be the driving force for the brand to grow its group revenue from Asia to 20% by 2022, with China playing a key role, he notes. “Today, the suit is completely different from five years ago, let alone before that. The innovation is in the play of materials, fabrics, and on the construction — especially for the male audience … something that makes you feel comfortable while looking sharp, for example,” says Langer. While workplace attire may not be as formal as it used to be, the right jacket is the core element of any wardrobe and style, he stresses. “It has never gone away and may come back in different ways but it is here to stay.” Evolving styles
Hugo Boss has evolved its offerings to complement the versatile and ever-on-the-go lifestyles of people today, from a tie with a classic shirt to a piece of knitwear, or a sophisticated cotton round-necked T-shirt. “We are living in a visual world where people are fully aware that dressing right for the moment is decisive for their success. And this could be a job
interview or to win a pitch, or it could be the first date with your intended girlfriend or boyfriend. I find it exciting that these worlds — the blending and blurring of lines of, say, formal and athleisure — are coming together. It becomes less predictable and [challenges us to be innovative]. We’re already talking about fabrics with new tech features, which might measure body functions for you, or maybe help with heat regulation. There’s a lot of development there,” says Langer. Hugo Boss has already invested in sustainable materials. A large number of consumers today are conscious of their impact on the environment and they recognise apparel consumption as a major contributing factor. Thus, in 2019, the brand launched its traceable wool and vegan suits, marking another milestone in redefining the business of suiting. Then there is the element of personalisation — rather than following trends, Langer believes in offering customisation services. The fashion house’s Made To Measure bespoke service is one that has proved popular, especially in China, and there is an option of meeting a personal stylist who can suggest pairing products to complete one’s wardrobe. There is also the more playful personalised prints on T-shirts offered through HUGO, under its Made For Me line, while BOSS offers an extensive level of personalisation for sneakers, from colour and choice of thread and shoelaces to adding one’s initials to the shoes. At the tail end of our conversation, I ask Langer about the unique advantage of being one of the rare German fashion houses with a presence on the world stage. “Of course we see ourselves as a global fashion brand, but if there’s something with a German background to it, it’s maybe the [fixation] on reliable processes and efficiency,” he says with a smile. “That, and we are quite competitive. Whatever we want to do, we don’t want to be second or third — we want to be the winner, we want to succeed,” Langer continues, but, after a short pause, adds, “I think this trait applies to everybody.” Very much the gentleman, indeed.
