SINGAPORE (July 17): Founded in 1979 by Brunello Cucinelli, the Italian fashion house started with cashmere collections that were understated. Even when the 1980s fashion was all about loud designs and colours, Cucinelli never changed his designs that were elegant and stylishly pared down.
Forty years later, while the product categories may have increased to include leather goods, accessories and home furnishings, Cucinelli keeps the designs elegant with a touch of luxury. Such is this year’s women’s fall/winter 2020 collection that was built on keeping in mind the idea of versatility, longevity across seasons, and suitability for any occasion.
Voluminous silhouettes feature prominently, especially for the maxi coats, while shirts inspired by the men’s collection are made of soft nappa leather worn with high-waisted trousers. Subtle embellishments include sparkling bronze, gold or silver fabrics to give the look a feminine allure.
In keeping with Cucinelli’s natural palette, this year’s collection sees a lot of whites and light and medium tones of beige that are harmoniously combined with delicate shades of lilac, sky blue, aqua and pink. Deeper tones only go as far as deep chocolates, and various shades of brown, black and grey.
Knitwear, the mainstay of the house, is present and from the skilled craftsmen come ramage, bark, and feuillage effects that are created with threedimensional irregular crochet, in-laid or embroidered stitches. All the traditional patterns, such as cable knits, English rib, flat rib stitches and Northern European motifs, are also featured, but these take on a softer, more feminine approach.
As mentioned, menswear inspirations are toned down by glamorous details, volumes and feminine accessories such as tall boots teamed with long tailored Bermudas, worn over trousers, or with skirt-pants, evoking equestrian style.
Lastly, accessories take a natural stand with leathers that show off a delicate polished effect that alternate with prints that emulate organic surfaces. Vintage inspirations run through the bag collection to give it a destructured look, while day bags flaunt precious leathers and mini evening bags are reduced in size and resemble details or pendants that complement a look.