This fall, a quest for order and simplicity is unleashed on Brunello Cucinelle’s womenswear collection, where effortless tailoring paves the way for comfortable contemporary styles that are fun to wear and easy to pair. And we have the 90s to thank for this look.
“I believe it (the 90s) resonates with today’s desire for simplicity, for a stripped down aesthetic, not only in fashion, but also in intellectual and spiritual values. We need simpler, more meaningful lives, less redundant, more in equilibrium, with more equity and tranquility. We need peace,” says Brunello Cucinelle at the press presentation of his womenswear collection.
He reports “a return to clean lines, more rigorous, but not basic”. And judging from the exquisite use of premium fabrics like airy mohair, alpaca yak fibres and super soft shearlings, there’s nothing basic about this luxurious collection.
Slender, chic and loosely inspired by the clean essential look of the 90s, the visual highlights of the line-up were definitely the diverse array of Shetland-inspired hand-knitted sweaters, jumpers and waistcoats that evoke the natural spirit of the countryside. They look almost like couture pieces intricately blending various knitting techniques like crochet, embroidery and intarsia, and accenting each piece Cucinelle’s signature shimmery yarns.
A wardrobe staple for every Cucinelle lover, the quintessential tailored jacket sported different proportions this season — the shoulders were less oversized, the length slightly shorter, and the cut of the torso more shapely and feminine. The slouchy boyfriend look is clearly over, and we are glad for that, as we see more form-fitting silhouettes that are soft, not structures.
What is also strongly felt is a liberating offering of relaxed trousers in comfortable cuts. New straight volumes and slouchy fits with utility details complement the variety of soft silhouettes.
Skirts are also longer at the hemline to usher in the chillier season, and pair with thicker biker or aviator jackets and boots or loafers, to make your look casual but glamorous.
We also see a nod to academic styles with preppy vests, tennis-style V-necks, pleated skirts, ties and socks worn with loafers and heels.
And when it comes to an occasion outfit, Brunello Cucinelle draws again on 90s jazz club vibes with heavy textured and shimmery pieces like sequinned jackets, tassel skirts, and sexy black tuxedos for the woman of today.
Overall, this collection is thoughtfully composed and well-paced, like a music score, pulling together the brand’s signature muted tones, soft textures and clean lines with the silhouettes of today.