
Revisiting the roots of winemaking
There are no pesticides or chemical fertilisers among the vines. No additives such as engineered yeast strains or clarifying agents during vinification. Every label tells a story about its microclimate and soil and every bottle has its traits, which may include some unpredictability. “Natural wine is about giving back respect and life to the soil,” says Philippe Chin, operations and wine manager of natural wine bar Drunken Farmer. Chin believes that more and more drinkers are moving towards wines that are cleaner in taste and easier to drink. That is a departure from the 1980s and 1990s when big and bold was in vogue and the Super Tuscans reigned. Indeed, Singapore’s steamy climate does not support hard reds with high tannins, Chin explains. “At Drunken Farmer, my focus is on lighter reds, with more freshness and drinkability, as well as higher acidity,” says Montreal-born Chin who moved to Singapore a year ago. Among the producers at Drunken Farmer’s Les Vivent les Vins Libres festival in April was Laurent Cazottes. Hailing from southwest France, this 12th generation farmer-winemaker produces unique wines and spirits, such as Champêtre Blanc. This white wine is made from the white mauzac grape, an obscure varietal native to this region of France. The wine has aromas of pears and apples and natural bubbles from its unadulterated fermentation process.