The works of Mikhail Eisenstein (1867-1920) — probably the best-known Latvian architect of the Art Nouveau style — features exotic influences, stretching perspectives with bold ideas such as empty terraces to make a statement and curvilinear lines that look futuristic even today. Riga comprises Old Town and the rest of the city. Examples of Art Nouveau contrast sharply with Old Town, which provides a realistic glimpse into the urban life of a walled city in centuries past. Old Town is a symbol of Riga’s cultural identity, which is recognised in its status as a Unesco World Heritage site. In the past, Old Town was encircled by wooden houses, which could be set on fire quickly as a defence against attacking enemy forces — such were the sensibilities of the day. What is now Latvia was invaded and conquered numerous times, the consequence of having larger and more powerful neighbours with territorial ambitions. Old Town dates back to the early 1200s, when the pagan tribes who inhabited the area were converted to Christianity. Latvia was one of the last pagan strongholds in Europe. In the mid-1800s, the city elders decided to demolish the city walls. The moat is today a charming canal with an urban park running alongside it. One can embark on a cruise for a fresh perspective of the city while the park is a tree-lined retreat with fountains, bridges, sculptures and plenty of greenery.

Riga Cathedral is the most prominent building in the city. Little local touches lend Old Town its character, such as the small family-run ice cream stall in the shade of a linden tree outside the cathedral. Look out for confectionary shops selling Latvian-made Laima chocolates and for something more exotic, there is Riga Black Balsam, a liqueur made from a secret recipe of 24 natural ingredients dating back to the 18th century. German businesses — in particular the powerful confederation of merchants’ guilds, the Hanseatic League — dominated the economy of early Riga, as it did in most of northern Europe during that period. The large Guild Hall was the exclusive club for the business elite and much of the city was shaped by the business community.