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Fall for these looks

Ezra Gideon
Ezra Gideon10/10/2016 10:25 AM GMT+08  • 4 min read
Fall for these looks
Berluti has the autumn/winter collection all sewn up in clever ensembles that will give you ideas on how to own your style.
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Berluti has the autumn/winter collection all sewn up in clever ensembles that will give you ideas on how to own your style.

Berluti’s latest collection makes a bold statement with its refreshing take on modern and youthful fashion, crafting plenty of eye-catching pieces for men. For inspiration, former designer Alessandro Sartori looked to the desert of Marfa, Texas and came away with a rich tapestry of colours and embroidery work for his collection.

Although Berluti is currently recognised for its innovative designs and strong reputation in the fashion industry, the brand was first known for its shoe craftsmanship in 1895. Founder Alessandro Berluti made a name for himself with an invention that reflected his style — the lace-up shoe. Although simple, the shoe was a single piece of leather strung together that boasted remarkable cuts and was comfortable too. This eventually became Berluti’s house style and the mark of a new era for the footwear industry.

Continuing this heritage, this season Berluti introduces new pieces in a line of shoes that gravitate towards casual wear. Fast Track is one good example, as the design is similar to that of running shoes, taking after the traditional rubber soles and curved-up toes. Even with its sporty look, the collection is clearly seen as a hybrid of sports and fashion. Berluti has added its own flavour as seen in the innovative fusion of glazed calf skin with nylon ($1,330).

The upper section of the shoe uses the brand’s very own Vitello Unico (Italian for “single piece of calf skin”) leather that comes with brogue detailing — a sophisticated look that also fulfils the purpose of adding cachet to its three-eyelet lacing. Much like many sports shoes, Berluti uses strong colour choices to complete the look: tobacco bis, desert night and buffalo ($1,520). If you are looking for a piece that meets your formal needs, the brand offers Oxford pieces such as Alessandro Spada ($1,290) and Contrast ($2,100).

Go out in style

As for fabric, cashmere features prominently. The jacquard intarsia knitting technique (the basic knit and purl method) is used on alpaca coats to create simple yet attractive vertical and horizontal patterns. Those who want something a little bit bolder can choose coats with a unique design — rectangular strips of the material are removed and replaced with leather panels.

Berluti’s sweater collection is made primarily of the same material, but woven in two styles to ensure the highest level of comfort. The brand shows its exemplary knitwork by creating three-dimensional textures, but also capitalises on the material’s softness by ribbing and air brushing. Standout colours that match the desert theme include pear, stone shades of red, rust orange, desert- grass and multiple shades of tree-bark green.

Match your coats with trousers cuffed and trimmed at the bottom to reveal the ankles, a trend that is seen all over the world from Britain to Bangkok. One of this season’s highlights is quilted trousers, an ideal partner to the brand’s cashmere and leather coats.

Scott Campbell etch work

In addition to Marfa’s dedicated colours and patterns, the accessory department delves deeper into the theme, using copper as the prime metal for Berluti’s luggage range. Horizon ($3,900) is the brand’s most iconic backpack for its functionality. The Horizon Mini ($2,340) has flaps instead of pockets and uses the same materials and colours. Although small, the Koa Maxi ($800) is a neat cardholder. Its elaborate rune-like design is a testament to this season’s identity.

This article appeared in the Options of Issue 747 (Sept 26) of The Edge Singapore.

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