It was definitely from what my Peranakan maternal grandmother and my Eurasian paternal grandfather used to cook. Peranakan and Eurasian cuisines have a lot of similarities. Most Peranakans might not eat beef but instead consume a lot of pork. Likewise, the Eurasians like their pork too. One good example is the Peranakan Babi Pongteh. The Eurasians have their own version of this dish and although recipes may differ from home to home, the end result is they may still taste rather similar. There are other similar dishes between these two ethnic groups such as Debal and Chap Chye and the Peranakan version of Curry Devil and Nonya Chap Chye. Though some may say that these dishes are very different, they do have a lot of similarities. Another good example would be my Eurasian grandfather’s Mee Siam, which is very similar to my grandmother’s version. The similarities were due to communal living in the past where they were very integrated, and naturally they influenced each other’s dishes. As your parents are good cooks themselves, did they influence your decision to become a chef?
Only my mother cooks. My grandparents were excellent home cooks too, but it wasn’t my passion to become a chef when I grew up. For reasons beyond me, I am here today as a chef, but not by choice. However, I am very happy cooking. More importantly, I wanted to ensure that what I have learnt is passed down to the younger generation. What was Christmas like growing up? And what is it like now?
When I was a young boy, I would remember many things because they were all so new to me. Especially during the festive season. Even though it happened for a very short period of time, I would wait with impatience for it to happen again. Christmas was a season of firecrackers and feasting. Granddad would start preparations weeks ahead, depending on what was needed to be done. I would help him to prepare and cook for Christmas, at least a week before. Then I would wait anxiously until Christmas day to eat the food. This year, as I have to work during Christmas, I won’t be able to cook for my mother and her friends, as I do every year. However, my siblings and I will be visiting a home and cooking for the less-privileged folks sometime in December. How would you describe the food at Folklore?
These are dishes that are very close to my heart, the ones that I grew up eating, cooked by my Peranakan grandmother and my Eurasian grandfather. They encompass recipes from the five ethnic groups — Chinese, Indian, Malay, Peranakan and Eurasian. Some are family recipes, passed down for generations; others are adapted from neighbours and friends of the family. Each is cooked “the old way” — from scratch, without shortcuts or compromise, but with lots of soul.

It is very hard to choose as they are all favourites of mine.
There isn’t a specific market that I go to as they are mostly available from the neighbourhood markets. It really depends on which market I am at, at a particular time. For example, today I was at Geylang Serai and I bought the four-angled beans, which were very fresh. Is there an ingredient that you use a lot?
Yes, there are actually four. They are shallots, chillies, candlenuts and belacan. These form the core ingredients for making rempah. Which ingredient do you dislike using?
Chicken. It is because of the quality of chicken nowadays — it is not as firm and flavourful as it used to be. What would we find in your kitchen at home? Pork, fish, prawns, chillies, sambal and pickles. What’s your go-to snack?
Ben & Jerry’s ice cream and curry puffs. Are there any food trends that you think are going to be big?
There will always be trends and it could be by taking something old and changing it into something new. And if you can change it and make it better with the old familiar taste and constantly improve on it, then that’s how a trend starts. We should not be limiting ourselves just because we are doing Singapore Heritage Food. Change is inevitable but do change for the right cause. On that note, I might do something different next year as some recipes need to be updated. This article appeared in Issue 807 (Nov 27) of The Edge Singapore. Subscribe to The Edge at https://www.theedgesingapore.com/subscribe